Installing COPs
Parts required:
Set of Toyota 1ZZ-FE 1.8L 2000+ Coils $50-75 (many other coils work, including Toyota Corolla, Tundra, MR-2, Celica, Camry…). Try to avoid getting the #1 coil off of 1MZ-FEs (3.0 V6 from the Camry, Highlander, RX300, ES300 etc.) as they often like to die.
| Part Number |
|---|
| 90080-19015 |
| 90919-02239 |
| 90080-19023 |
| 90919-02234 |
Optional Parts Required:
- Spare ignitor (1.6L only)
- 10,000uF capacitor (install on 12v and GND)
- .070-.110" spades for connection to coils
- Genuine Coil Connectors with wires cut from harness
- DIY Toyota Coil connectors & Contacts $30
- Recommended 12gauge wiring for power and ground, 16 gauge wiring for tach and trigger
Toyota P/N 90980-11885 for the coil connector
www.discounttoyotaparts.com
www.partznet.com
Tyco P/N 173631 for .070" contacts to fit connectors
Tools Required:
Wires, solder, snippers, etc.
Aftermarket ECU owners:
dwell these at 3.5ms cranking, 2.5ms at 12v
Wiring Diagrams:
by: Lazzer408
This is pretty self-explanatory
1.6L Schematics:
1.8L 94-95 Schematics
1.8L '95.5+ Schematics
Coil Pin Out
- ground
- trigger
- tach
- +12V
Procedure:
1.6L only:
Two options for wiring the coils from the start.
1. cut your ignitor connector and wire straight from there.
2. open your ignitor up and wire directly off the pins for a PnP solution.
First:
Seconded:
- Flip ignitor over, top side down.
- Drill 2 small holes near edge. Holes look like a big spider bite.
- Insert small pliers (I used a surgical hemostat) into holes and clamp.
- Slowly pull metal bottom plate away from the plastic body. It is simply siliconed in place and will come free.
- Carefully break the solder joints between the terminal pins and circuit board.
- Drill a hole at the rear end of the ignitor for the wires to pass through, proceed to solder directly onto the pins.
Third:
The rest is easy. make a harness to length according to the diagrams. 1.8Ls have ignitors directly on the coil packs, so use the wiring from there. That's it. simple simple.
The plugs will vibrate up off the valve cover if you don't fasten them to it. You can still drive the car, but doing so for an extended period of time will cause some problems. This parts up to you how you'd like to do it. So….
Ok here's how I mounted mine:
making the plate is extremely simple.
- I used 22g alumin. (pretty thin but good for the job) got a sheet for $3.99
- 4 nuts and bolts m6x40
- 1" hole saw
- ruler
I didn't take precise measurements, but that shows you what to do.
- Put a bit grease on each of the three valve cover bolt holes and lay the 1.5"x15" strip down. This marks the positon of each to drill out.
- Once drilled, measure from each hole made for the spark plug holes. Very simple, something like 1.25" away center to center. Mark each spot on your strip and drill with the hole saw.
- Once done, lay the strip back down on the valve cover. Inser thte COPs into the holes. Spin however you want them facing. Mark the position of the tabs with a pencil or drillbit or something. Drill.
- Finished. Insert the M6 bol up through the mounting holes from underneath. Bolt the strip down with the valve cover bolts. Insert the COPs into the holes and onto the bolts. Insert the nuts and tighten. The end.
Do laugh at that drawing. Also laugh at the missing dipstick loop
Here are my final results:
